Surprisingly tough and chewy, the tannins at this point overwhelm the fruit, which itself seems hard and impenetrable. The tight, unyielding core of cherry/berry fruit is ensconced in rough, ragged tannins that will need some years to smooth out. ——P.G.(12/15/2004)—— 87

A selection of the best lots of Merlot from Cold Creek, Horse Heaven, Canoe Ridge and Indian Wells. The 2000 lacks the profound depth of the ’99, but it is still a very classy wine, with a mix of red and blue fruits, defining acids and smooth tannins. The oak barrels add well-integrated notes of black tea, smoke and spice.——P.G.(12/31/2003)—— 90

The dark ruby-colored 1995 Reserve Merlot is packed with fruit and new oak. Aromatically revealing a host of sweet black fruits ensconced in wood spices, this is a medium-to-full-bodied, juicy, and velvety-textured offering. Black currants, brambleberries, blackberries, vanilla, coffee, and toast all vied for my palate's attention. Readers who love candied fruit and oak should consume this wine over the next 4-5 years.It's a sign of the times that Chateau Ste. Michelle's Merlots are its most expensive wines. Throughout the wine industry, consumer demand has driven up Merlot prices but not quality. Bulk prices for Merlot are exceedingly high so new vineyards are planted regardless of whether the sight is appropriate. Many of these young vineyards are incapable of producing wines with complexity and depth, yet consumer demand for simple, soft Merlots continues.In general, I preferred Chateau Ste. Michelle's 1995 Merlots more than those from the riper 1994 vintage.Chateau Ste. Michelle's wines are for the most part beautifully made, well-structured and well-defined. While not all of its offerings can be recommended, it amazes me that a large operation can maintain such high standards.Fax: (425) 488-4657.