This isn’t a big, powerful, long-aging Pinot Noir. It doesn’t have the flash and pizazz of more famous and expensive bottlings. What it is, is an awfully good wine that shows Pinot’s silky, spicy fruit qualities in a modest way. Like a great supporting actor, it will be happy to let the food take center stage.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 87

Last year’s bottling was wonderfully rich. The ‘04 is more streamlined and minerally, and drier, too. The cherries, cola and rhubarb are there, and the finish is elegant and dry, but the wine is on the lean side. Just shows the importance of vintage in Pinot Noir.——S.H.(2/1/2007)—— 87