Made in a leaner, crisper style than many Chards nowadays, this Chardonnay trades power for elegance. It’s almost like a Sauvignon Blanc, with citrusy acids framing flavors of limes, pineapples and green apples that have a minerally edge. New French oak adds just the right touch of richness.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 92

Clos du Bois has done a good job producing what might be called a Chablis-style Chard. It’s bone dry and crisp, with a spine of minerals and granite and other stony, earthy qualities. Fruit-wise, there are subtle suggestions of Meyer lemons, limes and pears. ——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 88

This is not the Calcaire that was so famous years ago. It feels stretched and pulled and thin, like a Chard one-third its price. Barrel fermentation and sur lies aging are all very nice, but the fruit just isn’t there to justify this price.——S.H.(9/1/2007)—— 84

Distinctive and individualistic, with mineral, apricot, citrus and wildflower notes—not your typical Chardonnay. This is possibly the result of clonal variations. The wine drinks smooth, creamy, dry and complex, with a peppery finish. —S.H. ——S.H.(2/1/2003)—— 90