The vineyard is in Calistoga. The wine, 100% varietal, has lots of new French oak. Seriously good, it shows all the hallmarks of a flashy, important Napa Cab, with rich, perfectly sculpted tannins, a deeply impressive structure, and intense, long-lasting black currant, spice and toasty oak flavors. Just terrific now, and should hold and soften through 2012, at least. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 94