The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills was aged for 18 months in 33% new French and American oak. It offers up a nose of toast, pencil lead, spice box, violets, and assorted black fruits. Balanced and lengthy, it has enough structure to evolve for 1-2 years should anyone decide to cellar it. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington's largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine.www.columbia-crest.com

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills was aged in 40% new French and American oak for 14-18 months. Deep crimson-colored, it puts out a fragrant perfume of balsam wood, Asian spices, violets, black currant, and blackberry. Medium to full-bodied, round, and smooth-textured, it has excellent grip, layered fruit, and good balance. Drink this very good value over the next 5-7 years. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington’s largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine.Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon spent 16 months in 20% new oak, a remarkable expenditure for a 200,000 case production wine selling at its humble price. It is dark ruby-colored with a pleasant nose of cedar, spice box, and cassis. Smooth, ripe, and seamless on the palate, this balanced, easy-going effort will provide pleasure for another 3-4 years. Columbia Crest, owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, has long been known for the quality of its value-priced wines. The current collection will only enhance the winery’s reputation. Columbia Crest is usually thought of as a producer of value-priced wines selling for under $20. However, their upper-level, limited-production wines merit serious attention as they, too, are value-priced compared to the competitionTel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

Winemaker Doug Gore should be on everybody’s list of best winemakers in America, but the size and low price points of his ambitious lineup seems to preclude that. This is a tight, hard, tannic Cabernet, with chewy, almost tough red fruit, but plenty of stuffing to go the distance. It opens up beautifully in the glass. Best Buy.——P.G.(6/1/2000)—— 88