Here’s a single-varietal wine from Italy’s northernmost Trentino region that boasts all the sensual roundness and softness of Merlot with the fresh forest berry and spicy acidity of cool climate growing conditions. Tobacco, mineral tones, dried hay, nutmeg, black pepper and bay leaf render a wine of deep aromatic intensity that undergoes an impressive evolution in the glass.——M.L.(11/15/2005)—— 88