The 1990 Boca is an eye-opening wine for its freshness and superb sense of harmony. The expressive regional and varietal character shows the more opulent, rich side of its personality in this sexy red. The 1990 possesses an extra degree of plumpness that is quite welcome in this appellation, where wines so often come across as herbal, lean and/or vegetal. A melange of tar, grilled herbs, dried flowers and tar lingers on the finish. Another decade of fine drinking seems a safe bet. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. The reds of Northern Piedmont remain insiders’ wines, but the finest bottles from these tiny appellations merit considerable attention. I came away very impressed with the wines I tasted from Conti. I also sampled a number of older vintages, the best of which are reviewed here. All of these wines are 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Vespolina and 10% Uva Rara, the traditional blend in these parts.Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994