Dried flowers, cloves, savory herbs are some of the many nuances that emerge from the 2011 Syrah Baker. There is a lot to like in this mid-weight, gracious Syrah, but I am not sure there is enough fruit to balance out all of the other elements. I very much like the sense of tension and energy here, but whether or not the 10% whole clusters mesh into the wine remains a bit of an open question at this point. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021. I have to say, it is a bit strange to visit Wells Guthrie’s beautiful Copain winery in Healdsburg, as none of the wines are made from fruit grown on the estate! Guthrie prefers to source fruit from cooler parts of Sonoma, most notably Anderson Valley and Yorkville Highlands. Today the Copain wines are mid-weight, gracious and delicate in style, a far cry from a few years back, when they were much more overt. In cold years like 2010 and 2011, some of the wines are a touch on the fragile side. Readers on a budget should be sure to check out the Tous Ensemble range, as those wines deliver tremendous quality for the money. All of 2011s I tasted from tank were scheduled to be bottled a few days after my visit. Tel. (707) 541-7474

The 2010 Syrah Baker emerges from the glass with sweet red cherries, flowers, spices, black olives, licorice and tobacco. Expressive varietal notes add considerable complexity to the fruit. The Baker remains understated and medium bodied, very much in keeping with the personality of the year. The Baker was vinified with 75% whole clusters and aged in 600-liter barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. This set of wines from Copain and proprietor Wells Guthrie was among the most exciting I tasted from Sonoma this year. Guthrie has decided to release his 2010 Pinots before his 2009s, as he thinks the 2010s will drink better earlier, owing to their mid-weight structures. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 Pinots, as they had just been bottled at press time. The Pinots are made with fully de-stemmed fruit and are aged in French oak barrels, approximately 25% new. Guthrie uses 50-100% whole clusters for his Syrahs. These are some of the most refined, subtle wines being made in Sonoma today. Stylistically, the wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, as the fruit is now being picked around 23 Brix as opposed to 24 or 24.5, as was the norm a few years back. Guthrie describes 2009 as a cool vintage with a late set but otherwise even ripening for both Pinot and Syrah, with no late rains during the final phase of ripening. Vintage 2010 was much more challenging. Rain and very cold weather were pretty much a constant the entire year. Frost, rain during flowering and a cold summer lowered yields dramatically. Achieving full ripeness was much more of a challenge in 2010 and some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. Tel. (707) 541-7474

The 2009 Syrah Baker is another hugely delicious wine. Layers of silky fruit wrap around the palate in this effortless, totally gracious Syrah. Firm yet totally polished tannins provide the backbone of support. The 2009 Baker will require a bit of patience, but the intensity is present for the wine to develop beautifully over the coming years. A final burst of dark fruit informs the sexy, refined finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This set of wines from Copain and proprietor Wells Guthrie was among the most exciting I tasted from Sonoma this year. Guthrie has decided to release his 2010 Pinots before his 2009s, as he thinks the 2010s will drink better earlier, owing to their mid-weight structures. Unfortunately, I was not able to taste the 2010 Pinots, as they had just been bottled at press time. The Pinots are made with fully de-stemmed fruit and are aged in French oak barrels, approximately 25% new. Guthrie uses 50-100% whole clusters for his Syrahs. These are some of the most refined, subtle wines being made in Sonoma today. Stylistically, the wines are a bit more restrained than they have been in the past, as the fruit is now being picked around 23 Brix as opposed to 24 or 24.5, as was the norm a few years back. Guthrie describes 2009 as a cool vintage with a late set but otherwise even ripening for both Pinot and Syrah, with no late rains during the final phase of ripening. Vintage 2010 was much more challenging. Rain and very cold weather were pretty much a constant the entire year. Frost, rain during flowering and a cold summer lowered yields dramatically. Achieving full ripeness was much more of a challenge in 2010 and some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. Tel. (707) 541-7474

The floral blue and black fruit-scented, dark ruby/purple-colored 2007 Syrah Baker Ranch displays good, fresh, vibrant flavors, sweet tannin, medium to full body, and an elegant take on this varietal. (Not yet released) One of my favorite California wine producers, Wells Guthrie, like a champion truffle-hunting dog, seems to unearth top vineyards for his wines. The other 2006 Pinots I tasted, as well as the 2007s, all seem austere, rather attenuated in the finish, and essentially angular. While obviously less charming and fleshy in their youth, I doubt they will age any better since there is not a whole lot of flesh on them. Part of this can be explained by the vintage of 2006, but that wouldn’t explain the same stylistic orientation of the 2007s. Turning to the 2007s, I think these are overall superior wines because of the better vintage. The 2007 Syrahs range from excellent to outstanding, and this seems to be Wells Guthrie’s strongest suit, as it has been in previous vintages. Tel. (707) 541-7474; Fax (707) 541-7575