A backward wine is the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Beatty Ranch. Notes of new saddle leather, tree bark, and red and black currants emerge from this opaque purple-colored wine. Gritty tannin initially causes concern, but as the wine sits in the glass and on the palate, its substantial richness and powerful, full-bodied, concentrated style becomes apparent. Patience is required. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2018.Phone 707-363-6828

The 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Beatty Ranch is not a typical Howell Mountain Cabernet. Although it possesses plenty of tannin, muscle, and power, it is deep and rich, with more sweetness on the attack than expected considering its origin. It is well-balanced, ripe, elegant, and supple. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. By the way, Cornerstone is made by Bruce Scotland, who also produces wines under the L'Ecosse label. Phone 707-363-6828

The 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Beatty Ranch Howell Mountain offers an attractive combination of smoky oak, blackcurrants, earth, and spice presented in a medium to full-bodied, tannic format. Give this Cabernet Sauvignon another 2-4 years of cellaring and drink it over the subsequent two decades. Phone 707-363-6828

These two elegantly packaged Cabernet Sauvignons have managed to avoid the tough, astringent tannin of the Howell Mountain appellation. They are elegant, pure, rich expressions of Cabernet that are accessible enough to be drink now, but their concentration and structure suggest they will age for 10-15 years. I had a slight preference for the 1992, with its sweeter, riper fruit and expansive chewiness, as opposed to the more tannic 1991. Both wines exhibit impressive deep ruby/purple colors, and pure noses of cassis intermingled with scents of toasty new oak. Both are medium to full-bodied, admirably concentrated, and well-made. Cornerstone Cellars appears to be a promising newcomer to the California Cabernet Sauvignon scene. Phone 707-363-6828