The 2005 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Amandorlato is immediately smoky and seductive with savory tones of smoked ham and barbecue spice that, for a brief moment, make you forget that this is, in fact, a dessert wine. The Italian name “Amandorlato” suggests bitter almond and you do taste abundant nuttiness. There’s a sweet-versus-bitter juxtaposition here that makes the wine interesting and perhaps difficult to pair with most desserts. It is good for short-term drinking. Drink 2013-2018. Corteforte is a beautiful castle built in the 1400s with crenulated watchtowers that soar above Pergola-trained vines. It’s a tiny, boutique estate run by Carlo Maria Cerutti who farms a mere three hectares of vine. As they say, “good things come in small packages,” and Corteforte has delivered quite a few gems this year. Importer: The Wine Company, www.thewinecompany.net