The 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Terre di San Zeno flows thickly from the bottle with dense extraction and rich fruit concentration. The crush occurs in January after appassimento (air-drying of fruit), and the wine later rests in oak casks for two years. Terre di San Zeno offers a unique bouquet that shows more mineral and dark ash than it does obvious fruit. Its bright acidity works well against the full-bodied nature of the wine. The tannins are still a bit hard.

The 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Terre di San Zeno is a very special wine with a distinctive bouquet that stands apart within the greater Amarone context. Aromas include balsam herb, dried rosemary, eucalyptus and black olive. The fruit component comes through nicely with dried cherry and prune. Twists of smoke and spice are woven with its smooth texture and soft tannins. Drink 2014-2025. Corteforte is a beautiful castle built in the 1400s with crenulated watchtowers that soar above Pergola-trained vines. It’s a tiny, boutique estate run by Carlo Maria Cerutti who farms a mere three hectares of vine. As they say, “good things come in small packages,” and Corteforte has delivered quite a few gems this year. Importer: The Wine Company, www.thewinecompany.net

Moist tobacco and Spanish cedar lend a soft, chewy element to this rich Amarone that is otherwise characterized by black cherry, prune and sun-dried raspberry. The plump, slightly sweet mouthfeel offers a twist of smoke, ash and gritty spice on the close. ——M.L.(12/1/2011)—— 91

Amarone Terre di San Zeno shows impressive elegance and beautiful integration of its fruit, mineral and oak-related aromas. This is a precise and focused wine with shadings of graphite and slate behind more opulent tones of cherry, blackberry, plum, cinnamon, clove, mesquite and cedar wood. It’s incredibly long lasting and powerful on the finish. ——M.L.(2/1/2011)—— 91