This wine wins you over by the sheer force of its exuberant personality. It has a range of citrus, peach and tropical fruit flavors that are tightly wound together by high acidity, while new oak adds aromatic and textural elements. ——S.H.(2/1/2004)—— 89

89 Cosentino 2000 The Sculptor Reserve Chardonnay (Napa Valley); $30. Bells and whistles Chard, with good and ripe flavors of peaches and pears elaborately framed in well-toasted oak, which brings vanilla, smoke and spicy notes. Feels round and creamy in the mouth, and finishes with a honeyed richness.——S.H.(6/1/2003)—— 89

The nose here delivers a hefty dose of meaty, smoky, nutty notes paired with mild pear and apple. The palate doesn’t show complexity—a pronounced toasted oak rides hard on apple and pineapple fruit. It’s balanced and finishes dry, but comes up wanting the desired texture and nuance.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 85