Big, rich and extracted, this wine was partially barrel fermented, and there’s quite a bit of sweet, smoky, vanilla-tinged oak—from the aromas through the long, spicy finish. Despite the bulk, it’s elegant and balanced. This full-bodied, no-holds-barred white would be particularly good with barbecued shrimp served in a saffron and coconut-milk sauce. ——S.H.(8/1/2001)—— 90