The 2010 Groppello Castelline floats from the glass with sweet red berries, crushed flowers and spices. Saline notes on the finish give this delicate, feminine wine much of its sense of proportion. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2009 Groppello Castelline is a pretty, delicate red laced with attractive, perfumed berries, tobacco and subtle earthiness. Medium in body, the Castelline is an excellent choice for pairing with equally mid-weight foods, and is versatile enough to drink well during the warmer months if served with a slight chill. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

There’s a lot of excitement surrounding the little-know Groppello grape that is a native of northern Italy. The variety delivers freshness and fruity intensity: This expression is extremely clean, polished and food-friendly. ——M.L.(5/1/2011)—— 87