On three occasions (1998, 2004, and now 2005) Cristom has produced a bottling called “Signature”. The current release is the 2005 Pinot Noir Signature, a wine fermented with native yeasts, aged in 100% new oak for 18 months, and bottled without fining or filtration. Dark ruby-colored, it delivers a captivating aromatic array of sandalwood, incense, violets, black cherry, and black raspberry. On the palate it is medium-bodied, surprisingly elegant, and intensely flavored. Spicy, savory, and mineral notes comingle with layered, succulent fruit and nicely integrated tannin. This deep, lengthy effort will benefit from another 5 years of cellaring and drink well through 2020. Without question it is one of the top wines of the challenging 2005 vintage. A year ago I said the same thing about Cristom’s 2004 Signature. Tasted again along with the above wines, I’m sticking to my story. It continues to feature an earthy character and killer flavors in the mouth. Continue to be patient and cellar it for another 4-5 years. I was also able to taste the 1998 Signature, reviewed in Issue 133 in 2001 by Pierre Rovani. He offered a drinking window extending through 2012; however, the bottle of 1998 Signature that I tasted is still youthful with the advantage of a splendid, nearly ethereal bouquet resulting from a decade of bottle age. 1998, 2004, and 2005 are not vintages that come to mind when I think of great Willamette Valley years but you would never know that from tasting this trio of wines. Continuity and consistency are the keys at Cristom; same family ownership, same winemaking team with Steve Doerner at the helm. Tel. (503) 375-3068; www.cristomwines.com

The 2004 Pinot Noir “Signature Cuvee” is made only in what the winery considers to be top vintages, the last being 1998. It is aged in 100% new oak, bottled unfined and unfiltered, and fermented with indigenous yeasts. It reveals an uplifting perfume of pain grille, spice box, blueberry and blackberry. On the palate it has serious grip, coating the mouth with glycerin and ripe flavors. It has superb concentration and depth yet maintains an elegant, refined personality. It is a candidate for wine of the vintage. Drink it through 2020. Tel. (503) 375-3068; www.cristomwines.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Gris (81), 2006 Pinot Gris Estate (88), 2005 Viognier Estate (90), 2004 Pinot Noir “Mt. Jefferson” (83), 2003 Syrah Estate (90), 2004 Syrah Estate (92+)

The medium to dark ruby-colored 1998 Pinot Noir Signature Cuvee (the label bears the signatures of Doerner, Feltz, and Gerrie) reveals delicate cherry and raspberry aromas. On the palate, this medium to full-bodied wine offers superbly intense red and black fruit, chocolate, roasted cherry and blackberry, as well as fresh black raspberry and spiced flavors. It is well-structured, complex, powerful, and elegant. This outstanding offering should be at its best between 2003 and 2012. Tel. 503-375-3068.