Pouring from a 500-milliliter bottle, the Cusumano 2013 Moscato dello Zucco (made with 100% Moscato Bianco) reveals a bright orange appearance with golden highlights. The aromas are almost exaggerated in a way that only sunny Sicily can manage with candied orange, zagara (lemon blossoms), apricot and beeswax. With fruit from the Contrada Milioto in Partinico at 400 meters in elevation, this wine is both fresh and very loud. Some 6,000 bottles were made.

The 2012 Moscato dello Zucco is packaged in a 500-milliliter bottle with a reusable glass cork. The Cusumano brothers have made excellent use of these alternative closures, especially on their extensive line of entry-level value wines. This is a dark, amber-colored expression made from air-dried Moscato grapes. The bouquet shows signs of the hot vintage with raisins, cooked apricot, crème br?lée and caramel. This dessert wine would benefit from a tad more acidity. This is a vintage to drink soon with a pistachio gelato. Some 8,000 numbered bottles were made.

The 2011 Moscato Dello Zucco (packaged in a 500-milliliter bottle) is a sweet and sticky dessert wine with lots of sunny Sicilian appeal. The wine is thick and slow moving in the glass. It shows a medium amber color with pretty highlights of copper and gold. Aromas of brown sugar, roasted chestnut, maple syrup and canned peach swirl together in harmony. Made with air-dried Moscato grapes, the wine is loaded with luscious sweetness. Only 8,340 bottles were released.

The 2010 Moscato Dello Zucco (500 ml) is a dark and amber-colored sweet wine with Marsala-like intensity. The wine is deeply fragrant and packed with candied fruit, maple syrup, brown sugar, caramel, Spanish cedar and acacia honey. Despite that long list of descriptors, ultimately the wine moves heavily with thick lines and slow consistency. The palate shows less complexity than the bouquet.