The real forte of winemaker Steve Webber is Pinot Noir and his skill with this tricky grape is evident even in this little beauty of great value: the 2008 Windy Peak Pinot Noir. Giving a pale to medium ruby color, it has spot-on cool-climate Pinot aromas of warm strawberry and forest floor with a touch of cinnamon and cranberry sauce. With crisp acid, a low level of soft tannins, and decent concentration for the medium body, this is a delicious drop now and should keep through 2014. Windy Peak is the name of De Bortoli’s entry level Victoria range, often offering solid, well-made wines of impressive volumes at very good value.Importer: De Bortoli Wines USA Inc.; tel. + 1 201 714 9700; www.debortoli.com.au