The 2005 Barbaresco Loreto is a deep, earthy wine redolent of iron, tar, smoke, black cherries and plums. This dense, chewy, old-style Barbaresco offers excellent length and in the right context will offer fine drinking. There is notable purity to the fruit, and with a little more polish in the tannins this bottling might very well merit a higher score. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

The single-vineyard 2004 Barbaresco Vigneto Loreto is a big, brooding Barbaresco endowed with plums, spices, tar, tobacco and leather. Even taking into account the vintage differences, this is a much darker, larger-framed wine. There is plenty of power here, but again, the wine is made in a somewhat austere, ungenerous style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990