The unusual 1997 Malvasia Dulce Carballo is produced in a similar fashion, but it has spent 10 years in 125-liter American oak barrels. It shows a dark mahogany color, not unlike an old Oloroso Sherry. The bright nose is redolent of roasted coffee, pine nuts and toffee. The palate is full-bodied, dense, pungent and powerful, with a finish, reminiscent of roasted oranges. Drink it now-2025. Importer: Jose Pastor Selections, Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 290-1156; www.josepastorselections.com