A release of 2,500 bottles, the Milziade Antano 2017 Montefalco Rosso Riserva is a wine of muscle and brawn with a lot of dark fruit concentration. It carries a significant 15.5% alcohol content, but there are quite a few layers of rich fruit to soak up most of that heat. The wine offers baked blackberry and cherry confit with spice, cedar and toasted cinnamon. If you're looking for power to pair with a gravy and mashed potatoes, this wine will do the trick.

The 2015 Montefalco Rosso Riserva is a blend of 65% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in large oak casks for 36 months. The bouquet shows offbeat aromas that remind me of PEZ candies or cherry liqueur. This wine is very dark, intense and syrupy. There is a point of sweetness on the close, and it's all a bit too much in my opinion. The alcohol clocks in at 15%. Some 3,000 bottles were made.

The 2014 Montefalco Rosso Riserva is executed in a slightly more traditional style with a subdued and elegant personality (which is saying a lot, especially when the super-exuberant Sagrantino grape is involved in the blend). This wine is 65% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. This vintage is lean and mild in fruity intensity. Only 3,000 bottles were made.

The 2008 Montefalco Rosso Riserva is beautiful and intriguing from the very first taste. Truffles, black cherries, licorice, spices and tobacco are some of the many notes that come together in this beautifully delineated, medium bodied Riserva from Antano. I very much like the sense of balance here. Deceptively medium in body, the 2008 Riserva has more than enough density and depth to support as much as another decade of fine drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Antano represents the small-scale, artisan side of Montefalco. Working out of a small, cramped winery that could easily be mistaken for a cellar in Burgundy or Piemonte, Francesco Antano crafts wines imbued with personality. At their best, these are some of the very finest wines to emerge from Montefalco. Antano is located in Bevagna, a part of the Montefalco zone distinguished for a relatively warm micro-climate that results in an earlier harvest vis-a-vis the rest of the zone. Importer: T. Edward Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504

The 2007 Montefalco Rosso Riserva is a big, powerful wine loaded with dusty dark cherries, tobacco, cedar, earthiness and worn-in leather. Despite its size the wine is already pretty approachable although it should continue to drink well for a number of years. The Riserva needs a few hours of air for some of the hard edges to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Antano is a great source for traditionally made, artisan wines from Montefalco. Unfortunately I wasn't able to taste the Passito this year. Importer: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504