Domaine Philippe Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin, Loire, France

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The Coteaux du Layon-St. Aubin offers earthy, mineral-laden aromas and a delicious, silky floral and flint-flavored light-to-medium-bodied palate. Drink it between 1998 and 2005.Of the three "sugar hunters" I visited, Delesvaux's wines are the most balanced and harmonious so I do not question their ability to withstand extended cellaring as I do with others.Importer: Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel: (212) 374-9415.

Although low in acidity, the 1992 St.-Aubin exhibits more opulence than the 1991, medium sweetness, great purity, and a honeyed, orange/apricot/peach fruitiness. Well-focused for its size, it should drink well for 15 or more years.A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY, and a Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin, Watertown, MA.

The 1991 St.-Aubin displays a sweet, apricot-scented nose, rich, long, fleshy flavors, excellent underlying acidity, and an impressively rich, well-balanced finish. It should drink well for 10-20 years.A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY, and a Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin, Watertown, MA.