The 2009 Barbera d’Asti Ai Suma is wonderfully perfumed, fresh and seductive. Roses, violets, plums, dark cherries and minerals are some of the aromas and flavors that flow from this textured, classy Barbera. The wine’s signature ripeness is there, but better balanced than in any young vintage I can remember tasting. This is a jewel of a wine from Braida. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. It’s been a long time since I have been this excited about new releases from Braida. The 2009 Barberas are truly stellar. They are less bombastic than some of the wines of the recent past, and more built on minerality and length. Let’s hope that is a sign of even greater things to come.Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2008 Barbera d’Asti Ai Suma, made from late-harvested fruit, is a stunner. Firm yet elegant tannins frame dark blueberries, blackberries, graphite, sweet herbs all the way through to the dark, sensual finish, where sweet mentholated balsamic overtones leave a lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2028. These are some of the most exciting wines I have tasted from Braida in a long time. In particular, the 2008 Barbere are exceptional. It’s hard to tell how much of that is attributable to the vintage itself versus winemaking, but the simple reality is that the 2008s are beautiful, elegant, refined Barbere that avoid the excessive heaviness that was common in the past.Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The flagship 2006 Barbera d’Asti Ai Suma is made only in vintages that allow for a very late harvest. The wine reveals super-ripe aromatics that recall Amarone. It is an impressive Barbera for its sheer size and the opulence of its dark fruit. There is excellent length and depth, but not much development of complexity in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016 Braida and the late proprietor Giacomo Bologna will always be remembered for being among the first producers to believe in the potential of Barbera as an important variety. Today, though, one often gets the sense that a new generation of producers is taking Barbera to even greater heights.Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The top of the line 2001 Barbera d’Asti Ai Suma comes from fruit left longer on the vine to achieve late-harvest ripeness levels, then aged in 100% new oak barrels. Inky and impenetrable in color, its maximum-intensity aromas of grilled fruit, charcoal, chocolate, and berry jam, its lush and succulent palate, dense, plush, caressing, and solid, combine power and elegance in a seamless whole. Who says you can’t have it all?Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907