The 2014 La Lloptera had an earthy profile, quite dark for a Pinot Noir, and some notes of ink and leather, which don't give away the varietal composition either. The palate feels better, although quite light, with some naked tannins and marked acidity. It has a peculiar style, so it's not a wine for everyone.

I only tasted the clean and precise 2013 La Lloptera, which feels very reductive and different from previous vintages. It's pure Pinot Noir with some herbal traces, some bitter cherries and good freshness. However, you still have to guide yourself by the palate which is sharp, with fresh flavors or blood oranges. By far the best wine I can remember from Escoda.

The 2012 La Llopetera is pure Pinot Noir produced without adding yeasts, sulfur or being filtered or fined, aged for eight months in used barrels in a slightly oxidative way, with aromas of bruised apples intermixed with red fruit and leafy notes, but the palate is quite acidic and thin, and the wine feels quite short. Drink now. Joan Ramon Escoda started this project in 2003 and has 8.5 hectares of vineyards in Conca de Barbera. His wines are produced in the “natural” style, without addition of sulfur. As is often the case I find that whites behave better in this style. Importer: Vin de Terra Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 731-2058

The 2009 La Lloptera is a pure Pinot Noir. It is very tight on the nose upon first pouring, unfurling with earthy, clay-tinged aromas and fine definition. Brooding and enigmatic, it offers a touch of Provencal herbs with aeration. The palate is well-balanced with a surprisingly firm grip, the fruit remaining in the background and driven by earthy, minty dark fruits and a clean, fresh finish. Drink now-2016. I am uncertain whether the wines of this Conca de Barbera estate continue to be imported into the United States. Having tasted the wines in the UK, they should be. Escoda-Sanahuja produces natural wines under biodynamic principles along a closed system, i.e., there are horses, cows and poultry running around and “doing their bit.” The wines are unfiltered, not fined or stabilized and no sulphur is used. Having worked in the trade, I am fully aware of the issues faced when customers return bottles that have oxidized, so I can only report on the bottles that I tasted myself, which were generally outstanding and individualistic. Winemaker Joan Escoda’s wines are not for everybody’s taste, but I found them endlessly fascinating and the bottom line is...they were delicious. Importer: Jonas Gustafsson, Vin de Terra Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 731-2058; www.indigowine.com in the UK.