The Kellerei St. Pauls 2021 Alto Adige Chardonnay shows cool-climate and high-elevation brightness with unripe apricot, grapefruit and green apple. The wine is lean and thinly textured, made only in stainless steel with fruit from lower elevations (at 250 to 400 meters above sea level, as is tradition for this grape) with deep soils rich in sedimentary deposits from the movement of ancient glaciers. This Chardonnay from the Italian Dolomites (with 30,000 bottles produced) ultimately puts more emphasis on freshness than it does weight.