The 2009 Pardas Aspriu is a pure Cabernet Franc from the single vineyard, “La Barraca.” It is fermented in concrete tanks and is aged for 14 months in French oak. The bouquet is very intense with small dark cherries and boysenberry fruit, although I would argue that it fails to express the varietal characteristics. Fortunately, that is more evident on the palate, which has fine tannins and ripe, vanilla-tinged black fruit as well as hints of cassis and citrus lemon. It is very well-crafted and has fine symmetry, but perhaps it needs more personality? Two very fine wines were tasted from Pardas, whose tagline is: “On our stage, the grape is the star.” Minimal intervention is the name of the game, and I appreciated the care evident here. Importer: Perman Wine Selections, IL; tel. (312) 666-4417

The 2005 Aspriu (“wild and pure”) is composed of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from a single vineyard. It was aged for 14 months in new French oak. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it proffers aromas of sandalwood, pencil lead, espresso, licorice, roasted herbs, and assorted black fruits. Dense and layered on the palate, this youthful offering is still a bit tightly wound but will gain complexity with another 2-3 years of bottle age. It will provide optimal drinking from 2013 to 2025.