Comando G La Bruja de Rozas, Madrid, Spain

科曼多酒莊G系列羅薩斯布魯哈紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3476

The 2021 La Bruja de Rozas is their edgiest and most austere mineral and soil-driven version of their entry-level red. It's herbal, with no concession for fruit, and it has electricity and grip. It's a good preview of what's to come from 2021. It has a lot of 2018 and 2016 characteristics, a cool summer, a year with rain and even some during harvest that complicated matters and made them lose some grapes, but there's more grip, more minerality, more depth, layers and subtleness. It needs time in the glass, and my guess is that at age eight it's going to reach an outstanding level. A grown-up Bruja, it’s more for soil fanatics than the general public, and it’s one to lay down in your cellar (by the case) while you drink your 2020s. There were 55,184 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2022.

The first red to be bottled and sold is the 2020 La Bruja de Rozas, which feels a little more reductive this year. The grapes were picked before the torrential rains, so the wine shows a little riper than the wines that were picked after (the single vineyards). It's flinty and with a note of struck match, with good ripeness at 14.5% alcohol. This is always aromatic and floral, pale and surprisingly ethereal and expressive, a very pleasant and surprising wine that tends to please most people. This is the wine that I buy in volume, as it's a superb introduction to the Comando G portfolio and style at a very good price. Even though the nose is never short of spectacular, to me the signature here is the super fine grainy tannins from the decomposed granite soils. This goes back to the freshness of 2016 and 2018, perhaps a little rounder and less herbal, somewhere in between the two vintages. 43,175 bottles were filled in late August and early September 2021.

The 2019 La Bruja de Rozas was one of the few 2019s already bottled when I tasted the whole range in November 2020. This is a village Garnacha from Las Rozas de Puerto Real, their first approach to the grape, trying to capture the essence of the fresh fruit and the fluidity of the wine. 2019 is a ripe vintage, and the wine is a little more powerful, juicy and balanced, with rich aromas and flavors. It comes from different plots of old vines ranging from 40 to 65 years of age and planted at some 900 meters in altitude on sandy granite soils in a zone that has plenty of rain, averaging 800 liters per year. Like all of their vineyards, these plots are worked organically and biodynamically. Each vineyard fermented separately in oak vats with indigenous yeasts with a soft maceration. The wine matured in oak vats of different sizes, ranging from 1,500 to 6,000 liters. The 2019 effect seems to be quite mild here; the wine follows the profile of the 2018, despite being a little riper, and it's still very balanced. There are notes of flowers, basil and a touch of bacon intermixed with the wild berries and herbs. There's a little more concentration, and the tannins are a little chalkier and more austere. But there is no excess ripeness or anything out of place, and it has acidity and length and finishes dry and mineral. 41,853 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2020.

I know the 2018 La Bruja de Rozas pretty well, not only because I have tasted it repeatedly before but also because it's a wine that I always buy, and I've gone through a case of this excellent 2018 already. But I wanted to put it in context of the rest of 2018s and the 2019 that was also bottled at the time of this tasting in November 2020. Time in bottle has also done it good: there is more finesse, the herbal notes have been polished, and the light comes through more clearly. The palate is more austere, more serious, think cold stones, sharp and narrow. This is getting more serious. This is the finest vintage for this cuvée to date and an excellent value. A wine to buy by the case... if it's still available! 53,478 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2019.

I tasted the 2017 La Bruja de Rozas from one of the most challenging vintages of recent times. The result is spectacular, but volumes are much lower. In this warmer and riper year, they also used a portion of the must without skins or stems to try to achieve a lighter wine with more freshness. It has the Rozas floral character, with a little more tannin, as I often see with warmer vintages. 35,000 bottles were produced in this vintage affected by hail, which also greatly affected this village.