The 2020 Vintage Port is a field blend from old vines (60 years, from selected parcels from the back of Quinta das Carvalhas) aged for two years in 3,000-liter old Portuguese vats. It was bottled in July 2022 and comes in with 106 grams of residual sugar. Plump and not terribly vibrant, this seems to fill the mouth, and it tastes good but falls rather flat on first pour. It is not showing much finesse or lifted fruit. The next day, it shows better structure and it comes together better. It seemed to show a little potential in the cellar at that point, but it is still a wine with average structure. It walks down the middle of the road, doing most things reasonably well but nothing in a truly distinguished fashion. The modest power is such that this seems quite drinkable now. It probably is not going to make the best vin de garde Port, but it will certainly hold a couple of decades.

The 2017 Vintage Port is a field blend from old vines aged for 24 months in used Portuguese oak. It comes in with 103 grams of residual sugar. This is sourced from the same quinta as the separately listed Carvalhas Port (namely, Carvalhas), but the selection of parcels is different. They are very different wines. This is not as bright and has a more brooding demeanor. Dry and stern, this shows off serious power and fine focus. It's not as exuberant as some 2017s—its fruit is not quite as vivid—but it is beautifully structured and should age well. It has good concentration as well. Give this some time, but it won't be unapproachable if drunk somewhat young. It should hold for 50 years or so. There were 441 cases produced, set for September release.

The 2011 Delaforce has a slightly smudged, gingerbread-tinged bouquet with plenty of ravishing ripe black fruit and a whiff of tobacco. The palate has a slight hickory note on the entry with a fine seam of acidity. Hints of cigar box remain patiently in the background, while the finish shows fine structure and weight. It is a slightly broody infant port, but one with charm and breeding. Tasted May 2013.

The 2007 Delaforce Vintage Port reveals an alluring aromatic array of coffee bean, Asian spices, incense, black currant, and blueberry. This is followed by a supple, elegant, nicely balanced, succulently fruited wine that is likely to evolve for up to a decade. With a bit more concentration and length it would have been competing at the top of the pyramid. Importer: Signature Imports, Mansfield, MA; tel. (508) 261-8751; fax (508) 261-8736