The estate’s top bottling, the 2005 Dettori Rosso (Cannonau), is once again simply awesome, especially in the way it marries richness and transparency. A wealth of plums, prunes, licorice, leather and perfumed spices emerge from this wine that at its heart is really more about sensual textural balance than anything else. The 2005 Dettori Rosso is simply superb. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. This is another set of head-spinning wines from Alessandro Dettori. I admit I was surprised and frankly extremely disappointed to see Dettori nearly double his prices with these new releases, particularly given the current economic climate. Abandoning the faithful consumers who have steadfastly supported one’s wines over the years strikes me as a very dangerous and foolhardy business strategy. That said, it is impossible to fault these offerings for their quality. They remain among the most fascinating wines being made in Italy today.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2001 Dettori is a bit lighter in color than the Tenores, but even more powerful and penetrating in its white pepper, kirsch, plum jam, and Mediterranean herb nose. Concentrated, velvety, and very full on the palate, with some high-octane glycerine sensations which broaden and deepen the flavors, its sweet and packed texture swells and intensifies on its long, resonant, and very warm finish. Drink: 2005-2015. If these wines tend to remind one of Chateauneuf-du-Pape there’s a reason – Cannonau is Grenache (or Garnacha), brought to Sardinia by the crown of Aragon during the centuries of Spanish domination of the island. And here, unlike most of the south of France or the rest of Sardinia, it is used entirely on its own, without any attempt to blend in other grapes.The Dettori family’s vineyards are located in the northwest corner of Sardinia, far away from the classic area of cultivation of Cannonau in the island’s south and southeast. But the grape has a long history here and has obviously adapted well to the local soil and climate, to judge both by the quality of the wines and the age of the vineyards, 40 to 60 years in the case of Tenores, 60 to 120 in the case of Dettori.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200