The affable Francois Barmes vocally advocates biodynamic viticulture and earlier harvesting to achieve balanced wines of juicy fruit and digestabilite. That said, more than a few of those I tasted were big-bodied to say the least, and certain of them could not handle their alcohol.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.

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The fat, dense 2000 Pinot Blanc d'Alsace reveals super-ripe apples in its aromas as well as in its rich, thickly-textured character. This medium-bodied offering should be consumed over the next 5 years. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 275-1200; Dionysus Imports, Lorton, VA; tel. (703) 751-9416; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585

Some over-ripe Chardonnay was blended with Auxerrois to fashion the 1997 Pinot Alsace. It reveals sweet white peach and mineral aromas followed by a medium-to-full-bodied, luscious, and vibrant personality. This superb value is thirst-quenching, plump, flavorful, delineated, and filled with lemony minerals, peaches, as well as apple-like flavors. It should be consumed over the next 3-4 years. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel (773) 275-1200; Dionysus Imports, Lorton, VA; tel (703) 751-9416; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (800) 266-6585.