The Bursin 2007 Riesling Zinnkoepfle smells of diverse citrus rinds whose oily, bitter pungency follows on the palate. But at the same time, this offers a juicy, refreshing side of lime and tangerine on the palate, accompanied by green hazelnut and wreathed with bittersweet floral perfume. Intense and penetrating – even a bit severe – in finish, it nevertheless refreshes and invigorates, with mineral nuances adding to the promise of additional complexity. I would not hesitate to plan on holding some of this admirably concentrated Riesling for a dozen years. Agathe Bursin – for more about whom consult issue 175 – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents, as witness her surprisingly fine showing in the difficult 2006 vintage. Bursin’s 2007 vintage Rieslings are comparatively firm, though they may well blossom short-term, and as usual she has scored impressive results with Gewurztraminer.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

The 2005 Riesling Zinnkoepfle displays a prominent, pungent nose of sage, lavender, cassis, and grapefruit zest; honeyed richness on the palate - though with no lack of invigorating citrus character or intimations of minerality; and a finish expansively and with admirable vigor, clarity, and exuberant juiciness. Obviously high-extract – not to mention high-energy – this Riesling should be worth following for at least 5-7 years.Agathe Bursin – whose inaugural vintage was 2000, prior to which her family sold their grapes to the local coop – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents. Although this widely-traveled young viticultrice (her preferred title) farms fewer only ten acres and is already chronically sold out, she says she does not intend to increase production by more than another third, and then only over the long run. Bursin indicated she had more botrytis in 2005 than in 2004, even though she harvested quite late (and even though this is the opposite experience from that of Mure in neighboring Rouffach) because Westhalten’s clay-poor soils generally retain very little moisture.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.

The 2004 Riesling Zinnkoepfle is also satisfyingly juicy, distinctly chalky, saline, alkaline, and characterized by bitter-sweet grapefruit, gooseberry, and kumquat as well as white peach. With concentration and cut in its finish, this somewhat Sauvignon-like Riesling should be worth following for at least 5-7 years.Agathe Bursin – whose inaugural vintage was 2000, prior to which her family sold their grapes to the local coop – is one of Alsace’s major emerging talents. Although this widely-traveled young viticultrice (her preferred title) farms fewer only ten acres and is already chronically sold out, she says she does not intend to increase production by more than another third, and then only over the long run. Bursin indicated she had more botrytis in 2005 than in 2004, even though she harvested quite late (and even though this is the opposite experience from that of Mure in neighboring Rouffach) because Westhalten’s clay-poor soils generally retain very little moisture.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.