Aromatically deeper pitched than usual, the 2020 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeot offers up aromas of raspberries, plums, sweet spices and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with a lively core of fruit and a long, saline finish, it's a worthy follow-up to the 2019.

The 2019 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeot exhibits notes of raspberries, rose petals, mandarin orange and exotic spices, framed by a deft application of oak. Medium to full-bodied, lively and refined, it's fine-boned and mineral, with bright acids and a saline finish. As ever, this is something of an insider's choice at Domaine Hudelot-No?llat.

The 2018 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeot has turned out very well, opening in the glass with a lovely bouquet of cassis and plums, complemented by top notes of woodsmoke and violets. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, with a bright spine of acidity and a fragrant, precise finish. A Chambolle-Musigny in all but name, this is an elegant and exquisitely balanced cuvée.

The 2017 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeot offers up notes of plums, ripe berries, dark chocolate and rose petal, displaying darker fruit tones than is typical of this frequently red-fruited and ethereal cuvée. Perhaps it was just the day I tasted it. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, nicely concentrated and fine-boned, with succulent acids and a precise, mineral finish. A Chambolle in spirit, it's a perennial value in the Hudelot-No?llat portfolio.