The sample presented of Voge's 2020 Cornas Vieilles Vignes was reassuringly excellent, with gently lifted, floral scents of violets, cassis and crushed stone. Full-bodied, deep and powerful, concentrated and rich but still almost painfully unformed, this needs time in the cellar. It's a blend of several parcels, aged in barrel but with just 15% or so new oak.

Now, this is more like it. A big step up from the disjointed Les Chailles, the 2019 Cornas Vieilles Vignes is a classic rendering of Cornas, with hints of crushed stone, mint, blueberries and red berries on the nose. It's medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated enough, yet it's not overbearing or heavy; it’s just deliciously drinkable and will drink well for more than a decade. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

The 2018 Cornas Vieilles Vignes blends fruit from some of the top lieux-dits of the appellation: Combe, Patou, La C?te, Les Mazards and Chaillot. Aged 20 months in approximately 15% new oak, it's a dark, inky-hued wine, but one that retains bright, fresh fruit notes of red raspberries and plums alongside hints of cedar and menthol. It's full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with a firm, granitic structure and sense of restraint, fine-grained, almost silky tannins and tremendous length.

Bottled in June 2019, the 2017 Cornas Vieilles Vignes still seemed shut down when I tasted it, marked by cedary oak and mixed berry flavors. It's full-bodied and silky-textured, framed by surprisingly tart acids on the long, crisp finish. Worth noting is that this includes the fruit that normally goes into the les Vieilles Fontaines, as that wine was not bottled in 2017. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

In almost every vintage, it's worth the price difference to step up to Voge's Vieilles Vignes bottling. Certainly, the 2016 Cornas Vieilles Vignes is another huge success, with hints of cracked pepper and briars accenting red plums and then picking up licorice on the long, softly dusty finish. Full-bodied, concentrated and supple, it's approachable now yet looks sure to evolve gracefully for at least a decade.