Jobard's 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières is brilliant, wafting from the glass with aromas of Nashi pear, buttery pastry, white flowers, oatmeal and crisp stone fruits. Medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, it's satiny and seamless, with racy acids, terrific depth and tension and a long, penetrating finish.

The king of the cellar is the 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières, a deep and concentrated wine that wafts from the glass with aromas of pear, peach, freshly baked bread, white flowers, ripe citrus fruits and buttered popcorn. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a layered, multidimensional profile and a long, saline finish, it has turned out brilliantly.

The king of the cellar this year is the 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières, a deep and layered wine that unwinds in the glass with notes of citrus oil, fresh Anjou pear, peach and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional, it's bright, lively and concentrated, with a textural, enveloping profile of considerable charm.

Aromas of light reduction dissipate to reveal notes of crisp green orchard fruit, wheat toast, iodine and dried white flowers, introducing Jobard's 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping wine that's concentrated and incisive, its deep and layered core girdled with racy acids. Long, penetrating and saline, this is a brilliant Genevrières that's more voluminous than the Poruzot and more elegant than the Charmes—and while it's hard to pick a favorite between the Jobard "big three," this gets my vote this year.

Antoine told me that the lower part of the vineyard, below where the cabotte is located, was hit by frost, so there is 20% less of the 2016 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres. Maybe I was just anticipating a little more complexity and mineralité on the nose of this wine, just losing a little nervosité because of the challenges of the growing season. The palate is quite powerful and intense with hints of peppermint infusing the citrus fruit on the entry that is slightly mellifluous in texture with a spicy, quite long finish. Not bad at all, although I might just have a preference for the 2015.