The 2016 Bourgogne Roncevie is fully destemmed with five percent new oak. It has a fragrant bouquet with pure blueberry and raspberry fruit, quite vigorous considering that it had only been bottled the previous day. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy, ripe tannin, a fine line of acidity, a little sinewy toward the finish but there is decent length here.

The 2015 Bourgogne Roncevie has a perfumed, quite floral blackcurrant and raspberry-scented bouquet. The palate is sweet on the entry with candied fruit; saline in the mouth but it just feels a little abrupt on the finish.

The 2013 Bourgogne Roncevie, which had been racked the previous week and was the only '13 taken from vat, has a light but pure redcurrant and cranberry scented bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with light, slightly dry tannin but sufficient brambly red fruit that segue into a rustic but charming finish.

The 2012 Bourgogne Roncevie comes from 4.88 hectares of vine. It has a ripe and quite showy redcurrant and Morello-scented bouquet. The palate is sweet and succulent on the entry with crisp acidity and a fresh if brisk, cherry finish. This is a fine generic Burgundy red. Drink now-2016. After scheduling and re-scheduling numerous times during my November tastings, I finally reached Domaine Arlaud Pere & Fils for the first time in late January. But good things come to those that wait and I found much to admire in Cyprien Arlaud’s 2012s. The origin of the estate dates back to a wedding in 1949 when Joseph Arlaud married Renee Amiot. Among the wedding presents were tracts of vineyard, which is always more useful than a toaster or an ornamental clock. Joseph was succeeded by Herve Arlaud in 1982 and invested in new vineyards and the estate has now been passed to his three children: Cyprien, Romain and Bertille. The domaine has eschewed herbicides since 1999 and transferred the vineyards to organic viticulture in 2004, certified three years later. Naturally (no pun intended) they started embracing biodynamics in 2009, including the use of horses in the vineyard to reduce soil compaction. The winery was constructed in 2003 in Morey-Saint-Denis, on the “other side” of the RN74 away from the village, a less picturesque part of the appellation for sure, but with much more space to work in. The fruit is de-stemmed although Cyprien does play with whole cluster fruit subject to the growing season. Natural yeasts are used during alcoholic fermentation and oak tends to be 15-20% for village crus up to 40-80% for grand crus. When I visited the winery, it was after a long day tasting, but even so my senses lit up when I sipped the first sample. Here are wines made in a very pure and natural style, each evocative of their respective terroirs. Each wine was imbued with superb freshness and delineation; occasionally evoking images of the sea, at other times flowers. Cyprien explained how they wait for the optimal moment to harvest their vines, which can differ by days between different crus within the same appellation (see note for “Les Ruchots”.) Importer: North Berkeley Wine www.northberkeleyimports.com and also Raeburn Fine Wines (UK)