Domaine Arlaud Aux Cheseaux, Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru, France

阿羅德奧榭索（莫雷-圣丹尼一級園）紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：4229

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Aux Cheseaux includes 20% whole bunch with the same percentage of new oak. This is much more expressive on the nose than the Millandes at the moment, ebullient black cherries and bilberry jam. The palate is showing very well, full of energy with fine tannin, a grainy/chalky texture and a palpable sense of mineral tension toward the sustained finish. This is one of the best Aux Cheseaux that I have tasted from barrel at the domaine.

The 2015 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux was suffering a lot of reduction on the nose that made it difficult to read. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and good purity. Here the terroir does show and I appreciate the energy that filters through the mass of black fruit on the finish. It will need 4-5 years in bottle, but there is a palpable sense of energy and tension interwoven from start to finish.

The 2013 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux sports a light and agreeable marine influence on the nose: hints of sea spray infusing the crisp black fruit. The palate is very well defined with a citrus-like freshness, very fine tannin and supremely focused dark berry fruit interlaced with minerals on the finish. This dares to out-play the les Millandes this year...and it might just do it once in bottle.

The 2012 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Aux Chezeaux has a comparatively light and feminine bouquet with airy red cherry and strawberry fruit. The palate is well-balanced with fine tannins. There is a gentle build in the mouth toward an effervescent, very pretty finish with touches of peach and apricot on the aftertaste. This is lovely, a peach of a wine that comes highly recommended. After scheduling and re-scheduling numerous times during my November tastings, I finally reached Domaine Arlaud Pere & Fils for the first time in late January. But good things come to those that wait and I found much to admire in Cyprien Arlaud’s 2012s. The origin of the estate dates back to a wedding in 1949 when Joseph Arlaud married Renee Amiot. Among the wedding presents were tracts of vineyard, which is always more useful than a toaster or an ornamental clock. Joseph was succeeded by Herve Arlaud in 1982 and invested in new vineyards and the estate has now been passed to his three children: Cyprien, Romain and Bertille. The domaine has eschewed herbicides since 1999 and transferred the vineyards to organic viticulture in 2004, certified three years later. Naturally (no pun intended) they started embracing biodynamics in 2009, including the use of horses in the vineyard to reduce soil compaction. The winery was constructed in 2003 in Morey-Saint-Denis, on the “other side” of the RN74 away from the village, a less picturesque part of the appellation for sure, but with much more space to work in. The fruit is de-stemmed although Cyprien does play with whole cluster fruit subject to the growing season. Natural yeasts are used during alcoholic fermentation and oak tends to be 15-20% for village crus up to 40-80% for grand crus. When I visited the winery, it was after a long day tasting, but even so my senses lit up when I sipped the first sample. Here are wines made in a very pure and natural style, each evocative of their respective terroirs. Each wine was imbued with superb freshness and delineation; occasionally evoking images of the sea, at other times flowers. Cyprien explained how they wait for the optimal moment to harvest their vines, which can differ by days between different crus within the same appellation (see note for “Les Ruchots”.) Importer: North Berkeley Wine www.northberkeleyimports.com and also Raeburn Fine Wines (UK)