The 2019 Meursault Clos des Ambres has turned out beautifully, mingling aromas of Anjou pear, green apple and orange zest with notions of bread dough, beeswax and crisp stone fruits. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's deep and concentrated, with tangy acids and a long, precise finish. Seamless and vibrant, it's especially fine boned this year.

A beautiful wine, Ente's 2018 Meursault Clos des Ambres unwinds to reveal aromas of pear, orange oil, wheat toast, chamomile and subtle hints of praline. Medium to full-bodied, bright and incisive, with lively acids and chalky structuring extract, it's an elegant, nicely concentrated rendition of a cuvée that I've always particularly enjoyed chez Ente. I suspect it will develop very nicely with some time in bottle.

The 2017 Meursault Clos des Ambres is also showing very well from bottle, opening in the glass with notes of green pear, oatmeal, dried white flowers and a hint of youthful reduction that dissipates with aeration. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, multidimensional and textural, with an enveloping attack that segues into a deep, muscular core, concluding with a racy finish.

The Arnaud Ente 2014 Meursault Clos des Ambres offers up a similar profile to the regular Meursault villages—apple, citrus, flowers—but complemented by suggestions of green pear and crushed chalk. On the palate, the wine is more concentrated, with serious chewy extract and mid-palate depth, its finish long, penetrating and grippy. This will really blossom with time in the cellar. The Clos des Ambres is produced from old vines, planted in 1952 to 1953, in an unusually stony part of the lieu-dit of En l'Ormeau where the water table is lower.