The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Gain is terrific, offering up aromas of freshly baked bread, white flowers, crisp stone fruit and beeswax. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with bright acids and a long, mineral finish, it's seamless and precise, with an elegantly classical profile.

Ente's 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Gain exhibits notes of white flowers, nashi pear, crisp green apple and citrus oil, framed by a light touch of youthful reduction. Medium to full-bodied, it's bright and fleshy, with a satiny attack that segues into a tangy, precise mid-palate. This is a racy, fine-boned Champ-Gain from Ente.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Gain is deeper, more concentrated and more introverted than the Referts, revealing scents of citrus oil, fresh peach, honeycomb and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with chalky dry extract and lively acids. This has turned out very well in bottle.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Arnaud Ente's 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Gain felt a little stilted on the nose, lacked the delineation of other premier crus from the appellation. The palate is again quite limey in the mouth and lacks a sense of mineralité and terroir expression on the finish. It does gain some composure and weight with aeration but never quite reaches the level I would expect (especially given the prices that these bottles now fetch on the open market).