The 1997 Meursault En l'Ormeau is produced from vines that are over 45 year old. Exhibiting dense white fruit aromas, this wine has a medium-to-full body and a stunning flavor profile composed of yellow plums, candied hazelnuts, acacia, and sea salt. Most importantly, it is well-balanced, with a thick texture yet a fresh personality (this rare combination is a characteristic I most associate with Coche's wines). Projected maturity: now-2005. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.

94+) Produced from 45 year old vines, the Meursault en L'Ormeau reveals deep ripeness and candied nuts on the nose. This is a rich, awesomely deep, medium-to-full-bodied, balanced, and velvety wine packed with white fruits, smoke, toast, and grilled hazelnuts. Anticipated maturity: Now-2003. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Ente has met with a number of first-rate importers (including Eric Solomon, Robert Kacher, and Peter Weygandt) but had not yet selected a representative as this report went to print.