The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Quartier de Marei Haut has taken on considerable additional finesse and refinement since I tasted it from barrel. Mingling aromas of wild berries, plums and orange rind with hints of vine smoke and exotic spices in an inviting bouquet, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with beautifully suave, refined tannins, lively acids and a long, mouthwateringly mineral finish. From barrel, this appeared to be one of the domaine's more elegant wines, but from bottle, it's among the more precise.

The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Quartier de Marei Haut wafts from the glass with aromas of plums and dark berry fruit mingled with baking chocolate, warm spices and peonies. One of the more youthfully reserved wines in the range, it's full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a concentrated core of fruit. It's a brilliant effort, but it will demand a bit of patience.