More tannic and backwards, the 2012 Rasteau Saint Martin is a single vineyard blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and 10% Syrah that comes from 60- to 90-year-old vines. Possessing impressively intense black cherry, graphite, smoked herbs, licorice and dusty soil-like aromas and flavors, this firm, structured 2012 will require short-term cellaring to become accessible. These are serious, structured efforts that have some tannin to integrate. While the base Vieilles Vignes cuvee is relatively approachable on release, the estate upper-tier Saint Martin and Florianaelle releases will require patience. The 2012s are solid across the board, yet also possess surprisingly firm, tannic profiles that will benefit from short-term cellaring. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Also structured and tannic, yet with additional density and fruit, the 2011 Rasteau Saint Martin (a single vineyard blend of 50% Grenache, 45% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre) offers up smoking aromatics of dried herbs, loamy soil, mineral and black cherry-styled fruit to go with a medium-bodied, rich and nicely textured profile on the palate. There’s some upside here and another year in the cellar is warranted. These are serious, structured efforts that have some tannin to integrate. While the base Vieilles Vignes cuvee is relatively approachable on release, the estate upper-tier Saint Martin and Florianaelle releases will require patience. The 2012s are solid across the board, yet also possess surprisingly firm, tannic profiles that will benefit from short-term cellaring. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Fashioned from 60- to 90-year-old vines, the 2010 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Saint-Martin comes from the appellation’s single vineyard (lieu-dit) of the same name. It is a blend of tank-aged Grenache (45%) and 45% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre aged in 600-liter demi-muids. A tremendously intense bouquet of red and black fruits, garrigue, licorice and spice box soars from the glass of this full-bodied, well-endowed, voluptuously textured, thick, juicy red. It should drink well for a decade. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Even better is the 2009 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau St.-Martin, a blend of 45% Grenache, 45% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre, from 60- to 90-year-old vines. This inky/plum/purple-tinged effort is a succulent Rasteau displaying typical chocolate fudge and kirsch liqueur notes in a full-bodied, opulent, juicy, concentrated style. The sweet tannins and full-bodied, powerful finish suggest it should drink well for 7-10 years. The three outstanding Rasteaus reveal a lot more body as well as the classic character that comes from this sun-drenched hillside village. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Coatesville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800; fax (610) 486-6452