From old vines on granitic soils, Belle's 2018 Crozes Hermitage Roche Pierre is easily the equal of many Hermitages. Inky in color, marked by scents of crushed stone, licorice, dark berries and black olives, it’s full-bodied on the palate and a marvelous Crozes from a top vintage. Supple but structured, with a sense of coolness and restraint, it reverberates on the finish, delivering masses of fruit but also spicy-savory notes that keep it lively and refreshing. There's 40% new oak in the élevage, but it's scarcely noticeable, so intense is the fruit.

As close a facsimile of Hermitage as you're likely to find in Crozes, Belle's 2017 Crozes Hermitage Roche Pierre comes from old vines planted on decomposing granite, then matured in 30% new oak for two years. Cedary hints of pencil shavings accent cassis and black cherry on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is richly concentrated and tannic yet finishes long and crisp.

Bottled just a week before my visit, the 2016 Crozes Hermitage Roche Pierre (old-vine Syrah on granitic soils, aged close to two years in barrel) seemed a bit reticent and tight. Pencil shavings frame plummy fruit in this medium to full-bodied effort. The suave, fine-grained tannins come close to being silky in feel on the lingering finish. This is the rare Crozes-Hermitage that's capable of rivaling Hermitage itself.