A disappointing sample, I can only hope that the bottle of the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Felix that was submitted was not truly representative of this year's production from this reliable domaine. It's medium to full-bodied, with green-edged raspberries and a silky, tea-like feel on the palate that comes across as lacking the estate's normal depth and richness.

Deeper and more concentrated than the regular bottling, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Felix is otherwise reasonably similar, with dark fruit flavors, ample weight and a soup?on of dried spices. Cola and plum are joined by hints of allspice and clove in this rich, velvety wine.

Firm and structured, with plenty of tannin, the smaller production 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée des Félix gives up the classic bouquet of roasted herbs, garrigue, black cherries and roasted meats that always seem to be present in this cuvée. A blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre and 5% each of Syrah, Cinsault and Counoise, this cuvée is aged in a mix of demi-muids and older barrels for upwards of two years, compared to the shorter elevage and foudre aging of the traditional cuvée. Give bottles 2-3 years of bottle age and drink through 2030.

Surprisingly, I wasn’t able to taste his traditional Chateauneuf du Pape, but the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Felix will certainly be outstanding. Still in foudre, it’s a superb effort from this estate with textbook dark fruits, smoke plum, roasted meat and wild herbs to go with a rich, textured and nicely concentrated feel. If you’re looking for classic, old-school styled wines, look no further.

Richer and more layered, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Felix is a blend of 65% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre and the rest Syrah and other permitted varieties. Aged all in older foudre, it has beautiful blackberry, black cherry, leather, garrigue and licorice aromas and flavors to go with a medium-bodied, nicely concentrated feel on the palate. It too is a very traditional, complex and character-filled effort that shows the vintage nicely. Enjoy bottles through 2021. Drink now-2021. One of my favorite estates, these classic, traditional efforts are made by Jean-Paul Versino. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191