As longtime readers know, I am not a fan of Sylvaner, but I must admit I would enjoy drinking Bott-Geyl's 1995 Sylvaner Beblenheim. It offers plenty of fruit, more personality and character than most neutral tasting Sylvaners, a citrusy, floral, spicy note, elegance, medium body, and plenty of flavor, concentration, and length. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. Bott-Geyl has become one of Alsace's most fashionable young wine producers. Three consistent characteristics of these wines are 1) purity and concentration, 2) multi-layered textures - the result of extended lees contact for 10-12 months, and 3) faithful interpretation of each varietal's characteristics. The wines reviewed in this segment performed exceptionally well, and, for their quality, are reasonably-priced. Importer: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910.