The only 2017 red that had been bottled at the time of my visit, the 2017 Cotes du Rhone Laurent B is 80% young-vine Cairanne and the rest Plan de Dieu, a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% each Cinsault and Mourvèdre that sees no wood. It's medium-bodied, fresh and fruity, with cherry and blueberry fruit that's juicy, delicious and silky on the finish. "We're looking for drinkability," says Brusset.