The refined texture recommends this brut, which is mainly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with a splash of Pinot Meunier. It’s an elegant wine, rich in citrus fruits, green apples, raspberries, smoke and creamy yeast, but it’s very young and aggressive. Needs time. Cellar through 2012.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 92