From three clay-rich but also particularly stony parcels north of the village, Collotte's 2006 Marsannay Champsalomon features tart but ripe blackberry and purple plum tinged with pungent, bitter-sweet herbs and backed by distinctly chalky mineral impressions. This is truly palate-staining stuff, even if not terribly complex, and what's more it has the refreshing brightness and sense of lift that keeps so many 2006s free of austerity. I would plan to enjoy it over the next 3-4 years. On the basis of a single Philippe Collotte 2005s (reviewed in issue 171) it was clear to me that his name belonged on the lengthening roster of Marsannay vintners seriously committed to quality, who as it happens are for the most part also proponents of organic viticulture and the rediscovery of early 20th century wine growing traditions. Collotte has built on the roughly eight acres around Marsannay that he inherited from his father, under whom the production was sold in barrel. The proprietors of the well-known Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair, incidentally, are cousins with whom Collette shares a courtyard.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
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