Could the 2017 Rasteau Argiles Bleues be even better than the excellent 2016? It's certainly a big step up from the regular 2017 bottling. Ripe notes of cola, plum and dried spices lead into a full-bodied, expansive palate that's rich and velvety in texture, finishing long and layered. It should drink well for at least 6-7 years.

Better known for its Chateauneuf du Pape, this domaine also turns out a couple of top-flight bottlings from Rasteau. The 2016 Rasteau Argiles Bleues (from blue clays) is a full-bodied, supple beauty, with creamy-textured cherry fruit and just enough mocha and Garrigue notes for complexity. Drink it over the next 4-5 years.

The 2009 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Argiles Bleus is good, but not up to the quality of recent vintages. A medium dark ruby hue is accompanied by aromas of white chocolate, herbs, earth, black cherries and spice. The wine lacks concentration and depth. (Not yet released)As a frequent buyer of wines from this bio-dynamically farmed estate, I have been an advocate of these wines for over two decades. I was not presented with any 2008s to taste during my trip, which I take as a sign of no confidence in how they are performing. The 2009s, while very good, underperformed compared to just about every top vintage in Chateauneuf du Pape over the last 15-20 years. The two whites revealed contrasting styles. The Coulons normally do a fabulous job with their Cotes du Rhones, particularly their Rasteau from blue clay soils called Argiles Bleus.Importers: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin; Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100 and Ruby Wines, Avon, MA; tel. (508) 588-7007

A sleeper of the vintage (and usually one of the finest wines from this appellation) is the 2007 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Argiles Bleus. This old vine Grenache from the appellation’s famous blue clay soils exhibits an inky/plum/purple color as well as a highly extracted nose of black fruits, earth, vitamins, and chocolate. Deep, full-bodied, powerful, and rich, this wine will benefit from 1-2 years of bottle age, and should keep for a minimum of 7-8 years. At the time of writing, Domaine de Beaurenard was in the process of changing importers, having lost nearly 250,000 euros when they were not paid for the sale of their 2005s.One of the oldest estate bottlers of Chateauneuf du Pape, the Coulon family boasts an extraordinary track record of making wine. They were one of the first to offer a luxury cuvee, called Boisrenard. The Chateauneuf du Pape (a blend of 70% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 8% Cinsault, and the rest various authorized varietals) spends time in both small barrel and foudre.

From the famous blue clays of the region, the 2006 Rasteau Argiles Bleus has a darker color, has some influence of some small barrels, and seems to be an impressive cross-over style between traditionalist and modernist. Deep, ripe, chocolatey, with blackberry and cassis notes, some damp earth, and very full-bodied power without excessive tannin, this wine should drink beautifully for 10-12 years. One of the great families of Chateauneuf du Pape, the Coulons, have been estate bottling for nearly 100 years, and have an impressive, nearly unmatched record of quality. Moreover, one needs to keep an eye out for their best value wine, the Rasteau cuvees they produce.Importer: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 448-9463