The 2008 Naissance Vin de Pays rose is a curious blend of Marselan (a cross of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache) and Merlot. It is a fresh, light-bodied, monolithic, straightforward rose that is correct, but hardly inspiring. Importer: Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

Made from a 50-50 blend of Merlot and Marselan, this budget-priced entree to the wines of Domaine de la Mordoree features lovely spice and leather shadings and a wonderfully silky, medium-weight texture in the mouth. Let’s hope that the Delorme brothers can expand this production without compromising quality.——J.C.(10/1/2008)—— 88

A negociant wine from La Mordoree, the 2004 Naissance, a vin de pays made from unusual grapes, is a well-made effort possessing loads of strawberry and cranberry fruit packed into a medium-bodied framework. It is best drunk before the fall of 2006. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228