The solitary white from Domaine de la Pousse d'Or, the 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru le Cailleret from 0.72-hectare of vine, has a light and slightly smudged bouquet that needs a touch more nervosité. The palate is smooth on the entry, quite creamy in texture with hints of pineapple and pralines, gently rolling out to a rounded, harmonious finish. Probably earlier drinking than it deserves.

Smoky, toasty, lemongrass and herb nose. Lively attack with a racy, lifted and tangy style, with oak dominating at present. There is a saline quality to it. This needs time to fill out.