The 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was demonstrating quite a lot of new oak on the nose, although it has the same percentage as the premier crus at around 30%. This obscured some of the fruit underneath, yet it is still nicely defined and classier than the Bonnes-Mares. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannin, sweet and generous but maintaining fine tension with good substance and length on the finish. This might be the best offering from the domaine in 2016.

The 2015 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru was showing just a tiny reduction on the nose, but there is clearly plenty of black fruit tucked underneath, later touches of kirsch, violet and rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and well-judged acidity. It tightens up towards the structured, more Clos Saint-Denis-inspired finish, yet the length and persistence in the mouth is impressive. I would just like more nervosité to come through and perhaps even a touch more charm. Otherwise this is a commendable Clos de la Roche that should offer a couple decades of drinking pleasure.

The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a bold and intense bouquet with small black cherries, blackcurrant pastilles, orange sorbet and a touch of oyster shell. It is not that far from the Bonnes-Mares in style. The palate is medium-bodied with a tang of marmalade on the entry. This has superb structure and density, stylistically reminiscent of say, Laurent Ponsot’s Clos de la Roche, although without quite the scintillating precision on the finish. Still, this is a fabulous expression of the Grand Cru and there is wonderful salinity throughout.

The 2012 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru comes from a 0.32-hectare parcel planted in 1950 and 1951. It demonstrates more grandeur and authority on the nose compared to the unruly Bonnes-Mares, dealing up superior delineation and focus. The palate is rich and sensual on the entry: dark cherries, kirsch, marmalade and even a touch of peach. The acidity is well-judged and it finishes with a flourish of precocious candied fruit. This is just superb, a wine worthy of its status. Domaine de la Pousse d'Or is one of the most picturesque estates in Burgundy, perched imperiously on the southern flank of Volnay village. With his hounds encircling his legs, I met with Patrick Landanger who became proprietor back in 1997 due to the untimely passed of Gerard Potel. His intentions of becoming a silent shareholder were changed and having acquired the remaining shares from the Potel family, found himself the sole proprietor. He got the bit between his teeth, expanding the domaine's holdings up unto Corton and down into Puligny, converting the vineyard to organic viticulture with an eye on biodynamics. We tasted the wines in his multi-tiered cuverie as assembled blend taken directly from vat. Patrick was keen to stress his dedication to sorting, first via a vibrating table, then a second by eye and hand, then electronically. The result is very pure fruit that fortunately is not taken to the extreme so that it erases the nuances of each terroir. Moreover, I appreciate the prudent use of new oak here. This is another estate, like Marquis d'Angerville, that has a ceteris paribus approach i.e. it is maintained at 30% so that those nuances of terroir can be observed without being skewed by the level of wood. There have been occasions, most notably apropos the 2009 vintage, where I felt that there was a touch of over-ripeness evident in the wines. In 2012 I only discerned one cuvee that exhibited similar traits, the Bonnes-Mares, which came across rather ostentatious compared to the far more refined Clos-de-la-Roche. Otherwise, these 2012s from La Pousse d'Or are worth seeking out. Importers: North Berkeley Wine, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880; a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93